Elsa Schiaparelli, b.1890 & d.1973, is one of the most influential designers of the past century. She made her mark with her Surrealist point of view and has left many innovations that keep her spirit alive with every turn of the season. Here are some pieces of her legacy:
Schiaparelli's 12 Commandments
- Since most women do not know themselves they should try to do so.
- A woman who buys and expensive dress and changes it, often with disastrous results, is extravagant and foolish.
- Most women (and men) are color-blind. They should ask for suggestions.
Remember- 20% of women have inferiority complexes. 70% have illusions.- 90% are afraid of being conspicuous and of what people will say. So they buy a gray suit. They should dare to be different.
- Women should listen and ask for competent criticism and advice.
- They should choose their clothes alone or in the company of a man.
- They should never shop with another woman, who sometimes consciously or unconsciously, is apt to be jealous.
- She should buy little and only of the best or cheapest.
- Never fit a dress to the body, but train the body to fit the dress.
- A woman should buy mostly in one place where she is known and respected, and not rush around trying every new fad.
- And she should pay her bills.
The Fashion Innovations of Elsa*Zipper closures on her evening gowns, no doubt for the quick escape from the dress, for whatever reason.*Graphic knitwear, knit with emblems, humorous touches.*The wrap-around dress (no, DVF didn't come up with it on her own, although she did perfect it and make it what it is today).*Mix-and-match separates for a more flexible wardrobe.*The backless swimsuit for
the perfect tan on your back.*The built in bra.*Culottes and pants for the modern woman, at a time when women were not supposed to advertise that their legs were actually connected all the way to their ankles, the way many of the early-century outfits made it look.*The wedge shoe.*The jumpsuit.*The overall.*Paper clothes.*Transparent raincoats.*Folding eyeglasses.*Fun furs.*The scarf dress.*Colored stockings.*Athleticwear and sportswear.*The shirtwaist jacket.*Ethnic-themed collections, including quotes written on the fabrics.*Cast buttons in artistic forms, looking more like brooches than buttons, adding to the garment and not just closing it.*The power suit, the shoulder pads and inverted triangle shape minimizing a
woman's pear shape. (She called it "the wooden soldier" look. Others called it "the nutcracker princess" look.
ouch...)*Surrealist fashions, such as erotic-shaped hats, food-looking accessories, fabrics printed with body parts, bones and organs, even household furniture, so your breasts look like a bureau drawer.*Synthetic fabrics with bold patterns & special finishes.*Ensemble outfits with coordinated dress, jacket, scarf, and more.*Waterproof cotton.*The modern idea of a fashion show with a runway, music, art...
